Lone Hike Across Namibia

I am happy to write to you today as I have recently come back from some travels across Namibia – ALONE. Yes, me, Taylor Whittaker, the girl who has only driven a few hours from home has now hitchhiked across a large part of Namibia. I know hitchhiking is not a normal form of traveling in the US, but do not worry as this is the way of organized transport here.  It is not the type of hitchhiking Americans are most familiar with of just walking down the road. The majority of people gather at a spot in town to trust a stranger (an unmarked taxi) to take them to their desired destination. It is still such a foreign concept to me, but also proves the safety of this country. I attribute it to the simplicity and free will of this land. Namibia has a population of around 2 million which means every person you meet has a connection to you in some way through mutual friendships or family. Just to put in perspective, there is one phonebook for the entire country, every cellphone has the same area code (081) and there are no zip codes. Isn’t that crazy?!

The spark of this adventure actually resulted from my frustrations and exhaustion at site which I will divulge in my next blog. My life is often filled with fear, but at this point I needed to get away, spend time with friends and see other parts of Namibia. These aspects gave me the strength to overcome fears of traveling alone in a country where I do not speak any of the native languages. So, I began my adventure by anxiously waking up repeatedly early in the morning because I was to leave at 6am in the morning with Ministry of Health and Social Services (MOHSS) transportation. Every Friday a vehicle leaves to Windhoek to pick up patients at the state hospital there. This saves me around N$300 in transportation. Khorixas District Hospital does not currently have a patient bus, so the vehicle of choice is a double cab (5 seater) with a camper top on the bed of the truck. Around 10 other people had the same idea and I was lucky enough to get a seat inside while the other passengers ranging from 8 to 65 years old loaded in the back with luggage piled on top of them. I do not know if I was honored with an inside seat because I work at the Ministry or because I am white. Independence and apartheid were not that long ago and due to my skin color I do get privileges that I would not otherwise receive which is uncomfortable and shameful.

After about 5 hours, I made it safely to my first part of the trip! I asked some ladies which side of the street I should stand on to call a taxi to get to the mall. I have no familiarity with Windhoek and had no clue which direction to go. I was going to the mall to get an external hard drive because my laptop from back home arrived to me safely. I was without a laptop for 6 months. Can you believe it?! I am one of the worst with technology, but oh have I come to appreciate it more and I have missed my laptop greatly. So, I was on a mission to get an external hard drive and load up with movies, music and tv shows from my friends. I crossed the street and confidently said Maerua Mallto see if the driver would take me… and success! My prior trip to NYC with my sister and mom before coming to Namibia helped me vastly navigating Windhoek and the country. I always just held my best composure and acted as if I knew where I was going even if I was going the exact opposite direction. Luckily the taxi dropped me on the side of the mall in which the store I needed was located. Each taxi ride in town is N$10. The rate increased from N$8 and people were upset. I agree with the increase as this is hardly any type of wage and especially compared to taxi rates in America which have a minimum charge plus mileage and time passed. It took me 5-10minutes to buy my hard drive and I was on my way. I had another 3+ hours on the road and did not want to miss transportation. It was around lunch time and I passed a KFC on my way to the mall and thought I could find it. Yes, Kentucky Fried Chicken is here! Well I ended up turning the wrong way, so no KFC but I did get delicious meat pies from a gas station. Meat pies are similar to a hot pocket, but homemade with delicious flaky bread exterior. I also naturally said my first KKG word! I used the gas station restroom and was surprised to see no one collecting, but as I exited a lady was there to collect and it was $4! It is usually $1-2, but they just painted the doors, so the price increased. Therefore, I said “Amai?!” which means “Really?!” She responded “Iyo” (yes) and pointed at the painted door. It was a nice restroom, so I did not mind – it had soap!

I was so proud of my novice traveling, with little to no problems along the way, but this did not last long of course. I followed my friends directions and arrived safely in my second taxi to Rhino Park where I would take my very first combi ride to Mariental. I was so pleased to see how well organized it was – there was a Mariental sign above the carport and a person registering individuals and taking money. I knew I was not getting cheated with a higher price because it was clearly written what the previous person paid. I waited for a couple hours until 15 passengers were loaded, then off to the gas station and my last leg of the trip until my union with Sinthu and Julia! Well after we got gas, the combi did not want to start. The engine is in the back which is right underneath where I was sitting, so I am convinced my white butt broke the engine. There were failed attempts of push the car to start it, jump starting with cables and many eyes  and tinkering hands on the engine. We were told that another combi was to come and I just followed suit of the other passengers and waiting patiently and began reading a book. Four hours later, a couple of ladies got into another vehicle, one family said they would just travel tomorrow and I was out of patience.

The Combi that Never Left Windhoek

The next person that yelled, “Mariental” I was on! I was cutting the losses and getting out of there! I was about to get in the back of a bakkie when someone else said there is another car also going to Mariental. The driver was charging cheaper and it was quite a comfortable ride! It was almost 5pm when I finally left Windhoek. I had been travelling for the past 12 hours, most of which were spent waiting. I arrived in Mariental exhausted and relieved. We had a delicious dinner at a beautiful Italian restaurant where we had cheesy bread, salad, pizza and cheesecake. It was glorious - a nice little getaway from Namibian troubles and imitated the feeling of being in America. There are very few restaurants in Namibia, which we all know is huge in America. I never realized how much I appreciate the occasional lunch or dinner out with fast and courteous service, beautiful scenery, a delicious meal with fabulous friends. Afterwards, we went back and chatted for a while about challenges at site. The next day we walked around town and that night my ladies got some highlights while I turned into an auburn red-head! I was coming back to Khorixas as fierce, feisty Taylor and no one would push me around anymore! We also skyped a PCV who recently returned to the states and reminisced on the things she missed in Namibia which included stale cheese puffs (lol). Sunday, Julia went back to Aranos while Sinthu and I ate a delightful breakfast and dessert at Wimpy’s – yet another sit down meal! I finished adding maroon highlights to her hair and watched a movie which concluded my last night in Mariental.

Hair Dye Party

Candlelit Dinner with My Gals

Day 4: Monday, August 25^th and I was on my way to the Kavango Region – so I thought. Mariental MOHSS transport was leaving to take patients to Windhoek and I was hoping to tag along. Well I was able to, just several hours later than hoped with the hospital ambulance. Since we left around noon, I would not be able to make the full trip because from Windhoek alone it is an 8-9hour trip on top of the 3 hours I was already traveling. Luckily, I was able to get in touch with my host sister who recently graduated from nursing school and was now working at Katatura State Hospital in Windhoek. Whenever Khorixas Hospital cannot adequately treat a patient, this is the hospital they are sent to receive treatment and care. I was able to get a small tour of the hospital which was nice. From what I know the hospital provides good services, but the hospital itself looked like a hospital out of the ghetto with dim lighting and old medical equipment. I was the only white person which puzzled me because I knew this was the main hospital in the country and then realized it was the main STATE hospital and all the whites went to private doctors and hospitals. My host sister, Jeane, did not get off work until 7pm, but her boyfriend was kind enough to meet me at the hospital. Eben recently started his own nonprofit named Youth Network and had a recorded talk show that day about what the youth expect from the Heroes of Namibia, those who helped fight for Namibian Independence. I wish I understood DamaraNama better because the host and the three guests were very active in the conversation. I could piece it together and was pretty accurate when they recapped the hour show for me. The DamaraNama radio station is at the NBC building so I got to have a small tour. The whole experience was really fun – being inside a radio station, being a silent onlooker on the talk show, and being in the company of some really nice, fun people. You know how I said the country was really small, well the DamaraNama radio is the radio station for all KKG speakers and is available on different frequencies for the country to hear. NBC has a total of 7 stations in different languages. Later that night, Jeane, Eben and I played a game very similar to the board game “Sorry”. It was a lot of fun and apparently in the middle of the night there was a small earthquake. So watch out – whenI come to town, I make the ground shake!

"Sorry!" in Windhoek

Tuesday morning (August 26^th), I was out of the house successfully in another cab to my correct destination and on a combi on the road to Rundu. I got front, middle seat which was good because in the back there were four seats in a row while I was in only a three seat row. I was quiet and kept to myself the entire 8 hour trip, but realized I am missing on the opportunity to listen to some great personal stories and possible nationwide friendships. (I know I have to be careful making friends with strangers, but honestly everyone is a stranger in a foreign country AND in Namibia no one is a stranger.) Fortunately, on a stop outside of Rundu when we dropped some passengers at a village, a lady approached me and was going to a village near my destination – Sambyu, and we discussed sharing a taxi to this hikepoint. Sam gave me great directions, but I was still uneasy because the directions were “Get a taxi to Cola Cola by the big tree and get another ride to Sambyu at this tree.” It had some details of price and such, but oh I sure hoped I was getting to this unknown place alright. The lady I met, waited patiently with the taxi so I could get a few things at the gas station and then we were we were on our way. This whole trip I really tried to be super aware of my surroundings, but I am so directionally challenged. The Cola Cola hike point ended up being on the outside of town and my new companion helped translate where I needed to go. A full load of standing people hopped on the back of the bakkie while I got a seat inside. We took a dirt road and slowly dropped people along the way and then took a 30-60 minute back road ride on someone’s land. We dropped some more people off at their far-away hidden home. I was nervous at first then enjoyed the road as it reminded me of Dad and this off road adventure was a particularly long one which was really enjoyable, but then turned a little worrisome as I hoped I was not going to get killed in the middle of nowhere or possibly get dropped off in the wrong place. If the latter was the situation, I was fairly confident a random family would take me in and help me find where I needed to be. Shortly after these thoughts, I was back on the main dirt road with Sam in sight at my new vacation home until Friday.  

Traditional Homestead in Sambyu

Did I share with you how many times my vacation plans changed? I planned the trip a week and a half prior and was very indecisive of which volunteers and sites I wanted to visit. Originally, I was planning on going to the Kavango where it is the simple village life only, then I added a quick weekend trip to the south to Mariental. Then, I was to split my Kavango trip in half at Mupini and then the other half at Mupini, but my trip was delayed by a day in Windhoek. Due to these changes, it worked out better to visit Sambyu first and then Mupini. After this decision, Sam and I got invited to a coworker’s mother’s 80 year old surprise birthday party – so I had to stay another night!

Sam had a whole meal plan set out for me and oh was it delicious! She is a fantastic host – she cooked and cleaned everything! She had spaghetti for me when I arrived, fish and cabbage stir fry, stew and it seems I am forgetting several meals – oh delicious breakfast of oatmeal with green apple and an egg sandwich! I was never hungry and my palate was always satisfied. We talked with her coworkers, walked around the clinic compound, watered her garden, watched the river, got a tour of a nearby lodge and attended an 80 year olds’ surprise birthday party! We were so casually invited to this event that we did not quite expect the grandiose of the party. There was a tent set up, a DJ with speakers, a head table, a huge meal, cake, champagne and there was even a typed program of the event! Upon arrival, we chatted with other attendees a bit and then took a seat in the back. The host then asked us to sit at the front in which we took the front row of the audience. She once again approached us and told us we were supposed to sit at the head table

Head Table Guests for 80yr Birthday Party

looking out. We were both nervous as neither one of us had met the 80 year old before and now we were sitting at the head table. Seated at the head table from the left was the Master of Ceremony (the host’ nephew), the 80 year old honoree, the host (the daughter), then the white girls (Sam and myself). This was another instance where I believe we got this privilege because we were white foreigners. It was an enjoyable night with a chorus and a piling plate of food that neither of us could finish even with our encouragement to each other. We were actually rooting each other on as we did not want to appear rude and not finish the plate and it really was tasty. There was chicken, goat, macaroni, rice and potato salad. After the celebration, we went out with coworkers on a longer than expected drive, but was still home early.

The next morning, I woke up and the exhaustion from my travels hit me and I was ready to get back to Khorixas. I was planning on extending my Mupini trip since I cut it short, but all I had left in me was one night. So Saturday, August 30^th Sam and I were heading to Rundu together – my first accompanied hike my whole trip. She needed groceries and I needed to get to Mupini. We made a big mistake in that it was the end of the month and everyone got paid, so Sam and I waited 2 hours in line to withdraw money. Many individuals did not know how to work the ATM and needed assistance, people cut in the already 25 people line, and every 4^th person the ATM blacked out saying “Out of Service”. It was wearing on both of our patience, but shortly afterwards we were united with Emmy and an unexpected Group 39er, Shayna! Kavango Region hosts half of Group 39 PCV’s and Rundu is the main shopping town, so this occurrence is normal (to my understanding) which completely throws me off because I never see another PCV from our group. We ran a few errands, sat and ate lunch where we watched four different weddings drive by. This includes a caravan of cars in colored streamers of the theme of the wedding with bakkies full of people singing and shouting. I really cannot wait until I get to attend an engagement, wedding or another traditional ceremony!

Traditional Hut Life

My last night of adventure was lovely. Emmy has the Peace Corps experience everyone imagines. She lives in a hut (with electricity) on a traditional homestead with a family. She eats dinner with her family every night and has little to no privacy as she is part of the family and therefore her hut is a part of their home. Although there are these obvious struggles, the love and protection within the family is evident. Emmy and her family even make jokes with each other in their native tongue. The little time I was there, I felt like I was home. I don’t know if it was the nurturing nature of the family or the peaceful outdoor nature surrounding me. I went to sleep clean from a hot bucket bath under the stars and a stomach full of traditional mahungu pap (pouridge) and chicken.

Her parents took me into town where I took a combi to Otjiwarango, met another volunteer (a Texan!) and united again with an extended volunteer, Nicole, that lives in Outjo.  Nicole and I then took a hike together to Outjo. It was nearing dark and I was nervous I would not reach home in time. Upon arriving in Outjo, I was dropped off at the hike point to Khorixas and shortly after was saved by my exboyfriends’ brother who recognized me, stopped, gave me a ride and therefore became the last hike of my trip. I hope you are noticing how easy it is to run into people that you know across this country. Oh, have I not mentioned that I was dating a Damara man? Guess you will have to find out more in a different blog because I have already reached 3,330 words. Thanks for hanging in there!

Hiking Back to Khorixas